Since Jean Claude Biver took over in 2004, he has transformed Hublot into a cult watch brand, having earlier revived the fortunes of Omega and Blancpain. When Hublot began in 1980, a Swiss watch that teamed gold with rubber was hugely original, and a myriad of imitations would follow. Hublot takes its name from the French word for porthole – the round look-out windows on boats – which explains the screws which pass through the cases of Hublot watches.
When I meet him one June afternoon in London, the 60-something Jean Claude is following Hublot’s tradition of mixing unexpected materials. He’s wearing an all-black minute repeater, one of the most expensive types of watch complications in existence, which has gongs to tell the time. But the strap is leather - and rubber. Owning the thing would cost £280,000.
So how do you create such a chronicle of watch industry success stories?
"The key has been passion, experience, work, my team, my customers and luck. I love seeing my clients," says Jean Claude.
Marcus Margulies, London’s charistmatic and outspoken watch man, cuts into our conversation. "Genius helps," he says. "He’s turned round the fortunes of three brands – every time, just selling round-faced watches. He’s outstanding."
Jean Claude smiles. "We’ve combined mechanical watches, with their traditional tick tack with new materials like carbon and ceramic. This appeals to young people."
So what’s next? "Innovation is what we do. We have a 12-strong research and development team. Our metallurgy department is planning new forms of gold and alloys."
Jean Claude received his first watch, an Omega Constellation, aged 8 from his grandfather. "A good watch makes you feel like a man," he says.
See TIME² in Selfridges or Westfield for a range for Hublot watches.
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