SIHH 2011 - Cartier, Panerai, Jaeger LeCoultre, Vacheron And Piaget

Now the bad news: the recent economic downturn, although showing sure signs of improving in the Swiss watch business at least, has inevitably reduced the number of new families, models and even iterations on show at the Salon International de Haute Horologie. But look hard enough and there’s still plenty to get excited about.

Take, for example, the latest editions to Cartier’s fine watchmaking collection, and the Rotonde de Cartier Astroregulateur, which promises the complete eradication of the effects of gravity on its movement (a challenge previously taken up by the hallowed tourbillon) by fixing the escapement onto the rotor – thus ensuring the centre of gravity remains constant. Although an apparently simple solution, the technical requirements are prodigious – the rotor house 140 individual parts (compared with 50 in the cage of a tourbillon) and Cartier holds four patents on the Astroregulateur’s design.

At the Italian house of Officine Panerai, the story was movement-based as well, as the brand strides into its new era as a manufacture in its own right. The latest caliber is the P3000, a twin-barreled movement that delivers a 72-hour power reserve and will come fitted to the Luminor 1950, with Panerai’s emblematic plexiglass crystal and ‘sandwich’ dial. Panerai’s military bearing was most evident, however, in the Luminor Submersible in bronze – a case material originally manufactured for the Italian navy that finds fresh inspiration in the current trend for ‘personalised’ possessions. Unlike Stainless steel or other precious metals, famed for their stability, bronze is tarnished by exposure to the elements and its this ‘patina’ that promises to uniquely ‘age’ the Bronze Luminor Submersible depending on the owners’ location and lifestyle. With its military-inspired green dial and titanium case back and buckle (to prevent discolouration of the skin) the Bronze Luminor is a striking piece.

Jaeger LeCoultre celebrated the 80th anniversary of the classic “Reverso” – first launched in 1931 and perhaps the most robust art deco design of them all. To mark the occcasion, JLC unveiled a spectacular minute repeater, its chiming mechanism triggered by an articulated ‘curtain’ that covers the dial. Perhaps more in keeping with the Reverso’s simple elegance however, was the first Reverso Ultra-Thin, containing a movement that measures just 2.3mm deep, and a ‘Tribute” edition of the original Reverso of 1931 subtly ‘aged’ to produce the perfect synthesis of historical accuracy and contemporary timekeeping.

After 255 years of continuous watch production, Vacheron Constantin has a heritage to fall back on, but prefers to focus on the technological developments that keep it relevant today. So alongside its History collection represented by the unusually shaped Aronde (or ‘Swallow’) based on an original design of 1954, it showed the new Patrimony Traditionelle World Time, capable of displaying 37 time zones (including quarter and half-hour time differences) and a new, larger version of its ground-breaking Quia de L’ile ‘composite’ watch. That’s composite in the sense that the seven-part case can be assembled from a choice of three materials and fitted with a choice of movements and a variety of dials – thereby achieving a level of customization that renders each piece virtually ‘bespoke’. The new 43mm Quia de L’ile is fitted with Vacheron Constantin’s new Geneva hallmarked retrograde annual calendar calibre.

Piaget is undergoing something of a renaissance at the moment, prompted by a return to ‘classic’ values including the ultimate in ultra-thin watches. This year Piaget announced 64 new watches across its AltiPlano and Polo lines, including the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon, the Emperador Coussin, measuring just 10.4mm in depth (the movement itself – containing 269 components – measures a staggering 5.5mm deep).

Finally, IWC continued its near-constant reinvention of its five ‘families’ with a timely reminder of quite how classically appealing the Portofino has become. Once regarded as an ‘entry level’ piece, IWC has decided to upscale this pretty piece and put it, if not on a par with the legendary Portuguese model, certainly within the same time zone. However despite the addition of new hand-wound, 8-day, dual time and chronograph versions, for a beautifully executed three-hand model, you couldn’t ask for much more than the Portofino Automatic – especially as it now comes with the option of a steel mesh strap known appropriately enough as the ‘Milanese’: a sporting twist that brings just the right amount of ‘bella figura’ to the Portofino.

Bill Prince is Deputy Editor of GQ where he edits its annual GQWatch supplement, a comprehensive round-up of the year's best timepieces for men. The next issue will appear in November 2011.

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