Baume & Mercier's Iléa line demonstrates, with almost stern perfection, that women’s watches are all about the grace inherent in simplicity. There is little extravagance here. Instead, one model after another seems to have been designed on the principle that less is more. It seems to work.
Such basic models as the 8769 are as stripped down and simplistic as a nurse’s watch. This one features a steel bracelet strap and a 30mm steel case housing a silvered dial with a curve guilloche’, and a date aperture placed discreetly at six o’clock.
More luxurious versions add to the opulence without ever overdoing it: the 8771, for instance, sees the silver dial replaced with mother-of-pearl and a curved-line décor, while the case this time is ringed with diamonds.
Bling it ain’t: the effect is elegant rather than excessive, the lack of extravagant detail on the dial – simple Arabic numerals at three, nine and twelve o’clock, indexes elsewhere – complementing the uncomplicatedly gentle sweep of the rounded case.
It is only fair to admit that there has been the occasional model that has smashed quite through Baume & Mercier’s self-imposed design puritanism: and here a watch studded with 1,000 diamonds, part of the Haute Joaillerie collections, springs almost unbidden to mind.
But it is a rare exception. Simplicity remains the essence of the Ilea, which is ultimately a very feminine watch that carries off the effect without ever seeming to try too hard.
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